Grafix Clear Rub-Onz 8-1/2-Inch by 11…

$34.69 $33.70

Permanent adhesive, acid free and archival
Includes equal sheets of rub-onz film and adhesive film and complete instructions
Sheets are 8-1/2-inch by 11-inch
Comes in pack of 4, 10, or 25 sheet packs
Made in the usa

Buy on Amazon

SKU: B0015Q16HY Categories: , Tags: ,


With Grafix Rub-Onz Transfer Film, you can design your own quick and easy rub-ons using your favorite fonts, photos and clip art. Grafix Rub-Onz Transfer Film comes with two sets of films: a frosted rub-onz film for drawing or printing your design and an adhesive film with a white liner to transfer your design. Rub-Onz can be a great accent on scrapbooks, paper crafts, school projects, stationery, collage art and more. It’s easy to apply to paper, chipboard, transparencies, foam, wood, glass, plastic and other non-porous surfaces.


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10 Reviews from Amazon

  1. 1 out of 5

    Junk Product. NOT REALLY A RUB ON TRANSFER!!! |
    Verified Purchase

    READ PRODUCT DESCRIPTION AND REVIEWS CAREFULLY! Our company purchases literally thousands of items on Amazon. After a while, you begin to realize that some products appear to have glowing reviews that are very similar to each other, and then a few reviews that stand in stark contrast to the others. Almost as if the over-the-top favorable reviews were rigged. I'm not saying that is what is necessarily going on here, but after trying this product for some of the very same things as the great reviews, this item doesn't work AT ALL! And yes, I followed the directions to the letter. Ink jet ink tends to pool and blotch, even if you let it dry completely. Then once dry, you have to cut out an adhesive sticky page and apply it to your project page, cut it out, peel of the cover cover sheet, etc. THIS IS NOT A DRY TRANSFER PRODUCT as the name implies. It is really nothing more than an elaborate process for creating a clear inkjet label. I wouldn't buy again, ever.
  2. 5 out of 5

    Transferring Inkjet Printing to Wood? This is the way to go!!! |
    Verified Purchase

    I needed to print some labels on wooden panels, and was having no success at all. The labels were just black text, but they needed to be printed in an old-fashioned, highly ornate font. Cricut machines looked promising, but none of the fonts were ornate enough. I found a computer font that was just what I wanted, but the question was, how to print the label on a wooden panel? I tried using iron-on transfer paper (the kind that is used for t-shirts), but when I tried to iron it onto wood instead of cloth, all it did was smear. I also tried decal paper and the clear film that's used for glass. None of them worked on wood. I was about to give up when somebody told me about rub-onz. Rub-onz worked almost flawlessly. It's a slightly more complicated process than the iron-on papers, but I was able to transfer my inkjet printouts to an unfinished oak panel and the results look perfect. The only tricky part is the last step of actually transferring the image to the wood - sometimes it doesn't want to stick. But I found that if you start peeling the backing from a corner, once you get it started, it will transfer. If when you peel the backing off and the image sticks to the backing, just put it back down - apply more pressure and try starting from another corner. Eventually, one of them will stick.
  3. 2 out of 5

    Not easy to use |
    Verified Purchase

    The plus here is that the print quality from my Epson Artisan looks very good - on the film - but only until you try to put it on something. In peeling off the protective sheet from the adhesive, sometimes all the adhesive pulls off with it, sometimes only some of it does, never has it all stayed on. This causes bubbles that will not go away, and the image does not completely transfer. What does transfer out probably will work OK on a flat service, but I was hoping to place it on a cylinder shape, and it is extremely difficult to do so without creating wrinkles. So, I should probably give this only 1 star, but perhaps it works better for other purposes, and, as said, the print quality on the film itself is quite good.
  4. 4 out of 5

    Finicky product, but good final result. |
    Verified Purchase

    This product works OK but does take some practice getting it to transfer correctly. If you are looking for a product that looks like a store bought, professional product, then this product is not for you. (Unless maybe you practice a heck of a lot....) I was making glass ornaments and I was satisfied with the final product that was produced. I did get better as I did more of the transfers. When I totally bungled a transfer, I was able to use a razor blade to scrape it off and then remove the remaining residue with a towel. Then just tried again. This product is a bit finicky and takes some getting used to getting it done correctly. And sometimes, you do everything right and the product doesn't transfer well. It is finicky. Below are my thoughts and tips: 1) use draft quality when printing. (also affects multiple image printing) First, I read one review that said to use draft quality when printing. I did not. I used better quality printing setting on the printer and it worked fine. However, after printing multiple images, I started to get ink build up in the printer and it started smearing on the transfer paper. I switched to draft quality and to my surprise, the image printed fine. It was hard to tell the difference between the higher quality print and the draft quality. Also, to get the most use out of the paper, I printed several images across the top or bottom of the paper and then cut off that entire section. This kept the paper with a clean edge for feeding through the printer. When using draft mode, the images that were already printed, were fine when printing a second or third image on the transfer paper. When using higher quality print mode, the prior images got scuffed up as the next image was printed. **Note - I also realized that after printing one image, I could perform the next step in the process - cutting a piece of film to cover the image and then print the next image. This way there was not damage to the already printed images no matter how many images I printed on the paper. 2) use matte paper setting on the printer - this produced the best results for me. 3) make sure to print on the matte side of the paper. Several people mentioned that the ink just would not dry. This only happened once for me and it was because I printed on the wrong side of the paper. It is hard to tell the difference, but holding it up to a light you can see one side is shinier than the other (matte side is duller) Also - if you use draft printing setting, the ink drys pretty quickly. 3) I purchased the transfer rubbing tool shown in the video I watched and it worked much better than a Popsicle stick. (<$5) This tool is wider and seems to work well. Also, when I did get a small crease/bubble in the transfer, the ball point side of the tool helped smooth that out. If the crease/bubble is too big, you are out of luck. 4) When transferring, I rubbed the paper backing until the paper came off on its own. I tried not to pull it off at all. Took a bit of rubbing and once I got a spot where the paper popped off, I started rubbing on the popped off section and moved to the section I needed to pull away. This helped the process of getting the paper to pop off on it's own. The ball point side of the tool also helped the stubborn sections pop off. 5) If I did have to pull the paper off, I pulled very slowly and if I even thought it appeared to be starting to snag, I stopped and pulled from another direction. 6) text printed fine and was readable, but I did use Bold print. Test was printed inside an image. 7) the background of the image also can affect how the final quality looks. I actually put an image on the back of the glass ornament and also the front. I used an image with a clear background on the front, so you could see through it. (of course the transfer is not totally clear so it is not totally see through) The image on the back could have a clear or dark background. The dark background seemed to help the images stand out more. Certain colors seem to look better than others after transferring. If you are making multiple items with the same image, make sure to transfer an image as a test to be sure you like the final image before making multiple prints. The transferred image will not have the same color vibrancy as the printed image. 8) you must plan on how to print images to get the most use out of the paper. I was printing multiple images, not just the same image multiple times, so planning what images to print next to each other was key in not wasting any transfer paper. Final verdict: Not sold 100% on this product. Would try this product again, but would also look around for other alternatives.
  5. 2 out of 5

    Awful inkjet quality |

    Besides the "oh well" disappointment that the final carrier film (which the transparent double sided adhesive film holds to the substrate) is not clear but is so matte finish as to be a bit cloudy so makes it of no use on the back of clear glass tiles, the blacks of inkjet imagery are very spotty instead of solid, unlike any "inkjet ready" media I've ever tried. For rough images only, be warned.
  6. 2 out of 5

    Not That EZ :( |

    This sounded like the answer to my problem; I have a poem that I wanted to add to a decorative painting project w/o having to trace & paint the text onto the surface by hand. I printed the poem backwards (mirror image) as instructed and followed the directions for printing onto the first medium. No problem. But when using the adhesive sheet provided for the 2nd step, it never 'stuck' to my surface. It may have been because I used glazing medium to protect my painted image, but regardless, the adhesive backing that was to transfer the text to the surface never adhered although it is supposed to stick to plastic, wood, glass, ceramic, and paper. Printing the text on the first sheet was easy, but transferring it to the surface (which is the goal) never did work and I tried at least 3 times wasting ink, time and supplies. Additionally, the adhesive film is so thin and fragile it was hard not to wrinkle or bunch it when separating it from the backing. I did follow all directions and watched the instructional video on YouTube several times, but still no success:[...]. I'll end up hand painting the text on my piece which is not the clean and detailed text look I wanted for the project. I'm assuming this product works for some projects, maybe small images, but I was very disappointed with my results.
  7. 1 out of 5

    Don't waste your money |

    It's not a proper rub-on. It's impossible to use for small graphics, like a single letter. There's a carrier and an adhesive sheet. Like double-stick tape but thinner. First you print (in reverse) on a carrier sheet. Then you *try* to peel the release paper off of the adhesive sheet. Good luck. Half the adhesive stays where it should and half wants to peel where it shouldn't. With great patience and an exacto knife you can manage it. Then you stick the adhesive onto the back side of the graphic. Peel off the other release sheet from the adhesive and stick it down on the item you're transferring to. Then peel the carrier sheet away. Whatever you print remains covered by a thin slightly-milky tape and you do see the border. The slightly-milky tape can be peeled off but I doubt that's intended since part of the graphic comes away with it and the remaining surface of the graphic is sticky. All together, it's hard to use and the performance is poor. You're much better off using water-slide decal paper or ready-made rub-on graphics. There is one system that makes a proper rub-on but you need a laminator, it's more complicated and expensive, but it does work. This doesn't. Model planes? Don't even try. Graphics for electronic projects? Looks bad, not durable.
  8. 5 out of 5

    Grafux Ckear Rub-onz |
    Verified Purchase

    Fantastic product - does just what it says. A little tricky to learn to use, but opens up all sorts of creative opportunities for producing rub-ons of words and pictures. Be aware that you will have an outline of whatever you are rubbing on, and need to cut around very carefully and close.
  9. 4 out of 5

    Great! |
    Verified Purchase

    I used the transfer paper to make decals on glass ornaments for a banquet. They came out great! Few things though to help with the process. Make sure you select photo paper and matte finish, as well as, the best quality. Also, when peeling off the paper off sticky side to attach to the decal, sometimes the adhesive pulls away from the corner and will affect the image. Therefore, make sure you give a little extra room for each image. Overall, excellent product and I received the item quickly. Definitely would order again.
  10. 4 out of 5

    Not perfect for every use, but has definite benefits over other products |

    I read a lot of reviews of this product. The big question is: why is this product, which is complicated and finicky, better than just clear sticker paper? The answer is because it is much thinner. Another difference is that the toner (or ink) is laid on the back side of the film, whereas on sticker paper, it is on the top. I think many people get confused because the branding is poor. "Rub-onz" implies something very specific, and that thing is not what this product does. The best way to think of this product is as something that will let you print on a very thin film and stick that film to things. It works well for adding images to white surfaces as the film becomes close to invisible. As it is so thin, you don't see a ridge around it that you would see when using a sticker. It is not perfect for transferring text to glass or any clear object because the transfer film itself is slightly cloudy. If you want to transfer just the ink or toner to a surface, you will be disappointed as that is not what this product does. There are two sheets - one is a thin slighly cloudy film on a backing. The other is a layer of adhesive, between two sheets of backing. After printing on the thin film (which needs a stiffer backing to go through a printer), you have to attach the adhesive to the film. Hints I've learned: Try to use a laser printer. Make sure you test which side your printer prints on and print on the matte side. (The matte side is actually the thin layer of film). When adding the adhesive paper, separate just a bit and adhere that small part first, then slowly peel away as you smooth the adhesive down. Fingernails, tweezers, or an x-acto knife are incredibly useful for separating all the parts. Also, you can use this with the Thermoweb deco foil and make gorgeous metallic transfers.